'That Paris exists and anyone could choose to live anywhere else in the world will always be a mystery to me.' — Adriana, Midnight in Paris
Paris is my place. My #1. Contrived, touristy, predictable and even overblown to some, but to me, Paris is it. I win the lottery (as if I haven’t already), it’s a 5th floor walkup in the 10th or 11th arrondissement. A two-hour coffee for breakfast, pretending to read the newspaper and then the rest of the day, a petit flâneur all around town, calling on my friends socially and getting drunk far too early in the day. Back home to continue writing a book of shitty poetry and a nightly cigarette overlooking the famed rooftops. That’s it - that’s the dream. And while you’ll be set on hitting the sites your first go round, here’s a handful of favorites I’ve come to known (or stolen from friends—namely my friend Jess, of whom those above gorgeous photo was taken, of whom your gorgeous face should be taken by.)
Note: Just as if someone were to ask you your Top Five Albums, Books, Films or Snacks and you find yourself—à la John Cusack in High Fidelity—calling the writer in the middle of the night to change your picks, as will I always be adding and updating this list as well.
Ready? On y va!
CAFES
Le Pure Cafe - The most beautiful cafe you’ll ever see. 11th Arr. Mosaic floor. Island bar. Quiet enough so you can hear the hissssss and clinks of every order. Nicest folks in town, too. Bathroom is a trip. Where they filmed part of Before Sunset. Plan on spending a good couple of hours. Mum and Dad looked good in it, but then again, they look good anywhere.
Du Pain et des Ideas - An absolutely, positively stunning boulangerie. The interior alone is worth a trip. Good croissants (not the best, but hey - all of Paris has their favorite), but you go for the highly-Instagram-able “Escargot” - a spiral flaky pastry with pistachio and chocolate flakes.
Le Contrescarpe - This is where I live in Paris. On a circle/roundabout so you don’t get too much annoying traffic, with Parisian life happening right in front of you. If you look straight ahead, you can see where Hemingway wrote A Moveable Feast. It’s heaven. Best spot in Paris and a great way to get to know the Latin Quarter.
Chez Prune - A word of warning, last time I was there, I heard more American voices than Parisian, so it might be terrible now, but if you get there early enough, it’s a friendly little spot with heavy-handed pours of wine and a decent charcuterie board. Alternatively, you can just grab a few bottles and sit across the street on the Canal, which is also great.
FOOD
Le Barav - Look, few people think ravioli when in France, but the French take - called “raviole” - is delicious. And at Le Barav, they’re downright addictive. Situated perfectly between two streets, incredibly friendly, a great terrace and a wine store right next door, so order 2 or 3 portions of raviole and then ask the sommelier what they’d pair with it.
Chez Aline - If they’re open, and you never know, but if they’re open, you’ll not find a better sandwich in all of Paris. The decor is to die for, as is the sign above the door. (Although it should be said they're famous for not being open, so check beforehand.)
Stohrer - Macarons! (Not “macaroons”.) And please don’t be the tourist who shows up at Ladurée. Ladurée’s are frozen and basic. Stohrer is gorgeous to visit, amazing eclairs as well, but make this your stop for macarons.
Le Pointe du Groin - A place so strange, delicious and wild, I had to do a video on it. They don’t take euros, dollars or cards. They only accept their own currency that they totally made up (you can exchange your bills at the counter, of course). Start with a cider, maybe even two, because… well, you’re going to have the Eggs of Death (“L'œuf de la Mort”) - this dangerous dish of poached egg, truffles, and asparagus in an amazing cream sauce. The entire experience is wonderful.
Marrow - Drop whatever hesitations you might have in eating bone marrow, as it’ll be a waste of time. They specialize in cocktails, marrow and brownies, if this clues you into the magic—complete with a pairing menu of varietals that pair best with said marrow. Great place to spend a few afternoon hours.
Le Bebe - A different kind of breakfast and not for everyone, but if you’re wanting an insanely delicious list of choices, such as “sea bass carpaccio, the boiled egg gingerbread crust on pata negra ham, the seared calf liver ... or a half-cooked Toblerone, lemon and hazelnut tiramisu, or strawberry macaron half and lavender cream.” And big windows across from a square if the weather turns bad.
Les Papilles - At some point, you’ll want to shell out a decent (although not crazy) amount for a true Parisian Bistro experience, this might be the best one in the city. Dark wood, gorgeous tiles, wine and foie gras line the walls. A happy, yet quiet crowd and both traditional and exploratory options on the menu.
Le Flore en l'Île - The only place I’d send you to that you’ll be surrounded by tourists and it’s okay is here. Find an outdoor table for incredible Notre Dame + Seine views, or tucked cozily into the corner if it’s raining. Order only an espresso and vanilla ice cream (real vanilla!). They’ll usually serve this with a truffle chocolate, but in case they don’t, just ask.
BARS
Le Baron Rouge - The secret might be out since the last time I was there, but if you can still get there when they open, expect a truly wonderful experience. LOADS of wines on option from an incredibly sweet staff, and some of the best (spiciest) cornichon you’ll have in Paris. You’ll be temped to wedge yourself into the corner, but don’t - stay near the window and watch the old men come in with their plastic water bottles to fill up from the barrels of wine + the oyster shucker outside (in good weather). The only negative of this spot is the toilet, but hey.
Harry’s New York Bar - The only touristy place I’ll send you to drink, but with good reason. Gershwin, Hemingway and Bogart all called this their “favorite”. You’ll hear a lot of American accents, so just find a quiet spot (lower level, perhaps) and soak it up… including the dangerously strong martinis.
BarOurq - If the weather is nice, you wouldn’t find me at any other bar. Set right on the canal and with an interior to die for + a live DJ spinning old French ya-ya, go in, order a bunch of wine, grab some pétanque gear and spend all day playing the famed past time.
SEE
Jules Lavirotte's 29 Avenue Rapp door - A 10-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower hangs the most insane (and controversial) Art Nouveau door you’ll ever see. Read this article before going to make it even more interesting (and don’t forget to walk around to the back so you can see the rear façade).
Imagine if Wes Anderson had a taxidermy fetish and you’ll be on the right track for Deyrolle - the cutest display of exotic death imaginable, and well worth a visit.
The Latin Quarter - just meander, or, flaneur as the French say, in and out and through the many different side streets of this neighborhood. You’ll find tourists, sure - it is in close proximity to Notre Dame, etc, but still the setting for both Somerset Maughm novels, and Hemingway’s house in A Moveable Feast.
Art Nouveau Metro stations in Paris are often overlooked… or looked at far too quickly. When you imagine that was doing this nearly 120 years ago, it opens the city’s incredible architectural history way up. Visit all of them if you can. And also don’t forget to visit some of Paris’ other gorgeous Metro stations.
Julien Aurouze and Co: If you or your child’s favorite movie is Ratatouille, then you might not want to visit the famed pest exterminator shop window that is so macabre, it made it into the scariest part of the film. That being said, it’s a great photo op.
See a film at the old Art Deco theater Louxor if you can. It’s stunning.
Oh! Any first viewing of the Eiffel Tower should be done by taking the Metro (or walking) to Trocadéro. What this results in is the tower hitting you right as you turn the corner, vs. seeing it small and slowly walking up towards it.
Annnnnnd, finally, if you want the strangest experience of all time, please go see my friend Jacques and his vampire museum. It’s in the suburbs. You’ll probably think it’s too far. And you might be right in thinking so… but you’re wrong. His website is in French (and confusing), so if you do decide to go, I’ll make the introductions.
FINAL THOUGHTS
The most important thing here is, in my opinion, to not be overwhelmed. Of course you're going to want to see all the sites, but don't forget that Paris is best served up in small bites—meaning get to know your neighborhood as much as you do the city. Touristy sites = touristy spots = you probably won't have your best meal under the Eiffel Tower. And don't be put off by the price either. It's a (now) well-documented fact at how little money I have, but I can testify that for under $15, you can get a bottle of wine, bread, cheese, grapes and meats and sit anywhere you choose (spot of Jess's photos and my favorite spot to picnic is on the map below.)
And, as always, I'm here for any questions. Any at all, as I love any excuse to talk about Paris.
