I can’t be certain, but Delhi might be the worst city in the world.
How it has not collapsed upon its own greed, pollution, potholes and sheer weight of the 33 million is a miracle—but perhaps miracles aren’t the best descriptors, as this is a city that the gods have either forgotten, or sold off for real estate.
A colorful violence lines the festering streets, proving true Mark Twain’s quote about all life being sacred here, save for that of a human. The bodies—some sleeping, some still, some surely close to their end, others held up as a dirty family photo in the frame of car windows, begging for everything, anything; the deformed, the hungry, the napping and the holy. And where is that trademark India Smell, once thought to be spice & sandalwood, since corrected to simply sweat? Nowhere here in the deafening capital, just the combined scent of rot, feces, chai and indifference.
Delhi is the world’s body turned inside out—all on display and nothing stored safely behind a cover or ribs—what happens when true anarchy is allowed to take over. Damn the man and burn the bra and defund the police and hack the planet? Be careful. There are places where life runs wild, and it’s not as euphoric as your TED Talk suggests.
When forgotten, discarded, ignored and left to fend for themselves, Delhi happens.
Which is why all trips to India should start here.
To know not only what you, the visitor, is capable of.
But also to see what India is.
Survive for a few days.
Even if that means hiding away in your hotel room,
As plenty of Delhi will creep in through the windows.
Just survive.
Eat nothing raw, previously living or Western.
Stare only at your next step, as taking in your surroundings means either a broken ankle, or missing phone.
Breathe deeply, just not through your mouth or nose.
And believe no one who claims to enjoy it.
For they’re either rich,
Lying,
Or desperately contrarian.
Delhi will rip the heart out of you,
Will make you question yourself as a traveler
Will make you question traveling.
Will make you question even humanity itself.
Survive Delhi and the rest of India will reward you...
Unlike what it’s done to those damned to live here.
